My sewing machine cover is complete and, as promised, here
is how I did it (grab a cuppa - this is a long post).
To begin with I measured my machine and listed the measurements on a sheet of paper. Add 1" to the width, depth and height to allow for seam allowances. (Note: I have a little Husqvarna Viking H100Q measuring 15” wide x 11-12” high x 8” deep).
I used Sew Delicious’s cover as inspiration and patched twenty eight 4½” (cut) squares to
create a panel measuring 28½” x 16½”. This doesn’t seem big enough given the machine’s
dimensions but when I laid it over my machine it draped down the front and back onto
the work desk so I knew it would fit just fine even after quilting.
Next I wanted to create a gap for my machine’s handle – essential as
I take my machine out-and-about with me.
|Portable Sewing Machine and Cover|
I added ½” to the length of the sewing machine handle (for me this
was 6½” + ½” = 7”) and did the same for the thickness of the handle (½” +
½” = 1”). Using these measurements I marked a piece of interfacing
with a rectangle measuring 7” x 1” - this would be my stitching line. In the middle of this rectangle I marked the
actual length of the handle (6½”) and drew lines up to the corners as shown. These would be my cutting lines.
|Solid line is stitching line - dashed lines are cutting lines|
I placed the lining fabric RIGHT SIDE FACING UP on top of a
rectangle of batting (both the lining and batting were 5” larger than my
patched rectangle). I then positioned
the patched rectangle on top of the lining, RIGHT SIDE FACING DOWN (thus lining
and patchwork are right sides together). Finally I pinned the marked interfacing rectangle to all layers, in the approximate position of the
handle (slightly to the right of centre).
Using a small machine stitch, I stitched along the solid rectangle marked on the interfacing. Once this was done I cut along
the central line and out to each of the corners as indicated by the dashed
line. NOTE: Do not
cut right into the corners as you may cut through the stitching – cut as close
as you dare. My finished
corners are always a little rumpled when using this method as I am cautious of cutting into the stitching.
However, if you do cut through to the stitching you can always re-stitch
around the solid line again.
|The lining is showing through. If you gently pull the lining away|
from the gap as you press, the lining will disappear from the front of your cover.
Once done, turn right-side out by pushing the patched rectangle through
the stitched gap (the lining and batting should
now be lying behind the patched rectangle). Press.
|Once pressed the lining is no longer visible.|
You can leave
the gap as it is and get on with quilting your cover ....
.....or you can do as I have
done and top-stitch around the gap before quilting the rest of the cover.
Next I made the pocketed sides using another blogger's tutorial which is, unfortunately, no longer available. So here is how I created the pockets ...... For each pocket I cut one pocket lining, one pocket outer - both approximately 8½” (wide) x 8” (tall). I placed them wrong sides together and bound the top edge using 2" strips of fabric and the single-binding method. Next I cut the a side panel to measure 10" x 14" (the dark pink fabric in the photo below). I placed a piece of batting behind the side panel and quilted it (simple cross-hatch). I repeated this for the second end panel/pocket.
|I quilted the side panels before adding the pockets.|
Once the side panels were quilted I trimmed them both to measure 8½” wide by 12” high and I rounded off the top corners using my Frixion pen (it
disappears once ironed - very clever). I lay the two pockets on top of the quilted side panels and pinned them in place.
|I drunk the tea before using the mug as a template. |
I didn't want splashes on my new sewing machine cover - well not on the first day of use anyway!
Then it was just a case of pinning and stitching it all together
which was made easier by those rounded corners. Finally I bound the bottom using 1¼” scrappy
I can fit cables into one pocket .....
.... and my 12” x 6” cutting ruler, Dresden template and other notions in the
Karen uses a small piece of fabric to create
the handle lining and I think this could
be incorporated into an already made sewing machine cover (she also details how to make her own
cover complete with side pockets).
Until next time .......