Patchsmith Sampler Block 5 - Paths around the Square

Never a truer word printed!

This week’s block, the Paths around the Square block, requires little seam matching making it ideal for the beginner.  It doesn’t even matter if your paths are not straight.

What I like about this block is the fun you can add to it if you fussy cut the middle square. Fussy cutting is where you cut your fabric in such a way that you highlight a specific part of the fabric pattern. And I have two methods for fussy cutting, to share with you, that require little more than an ordinary quilter’s ruler.

For my Paths around the Square blocks
I used Lori Holt's Modern Minis fabric.

The pattern requires a center square measuring 3½” square so to fussy cut fabric you should initially cut your fabric at least 4” square with the highlighted design in the middle. 

If you wish to fit the complete emblem into the block the actual printed design should measure 3" square or less.

Method 1 –  the tape measure method is a really simple method.  You will need some sticky tape – it doesn’t matter which tape (washi tape is good) but it helps if it is not clear.

1.         Position two strips of tape onto your ruler to create a template that measures the same size as the required cut square – in this instance 3½”.

The blue square measures exactly 3½" square. 

2.         Position the ruler onto your square of fabric so that the fabric extends past the two cutting edges and the two taped edges and your chosen emblem/design is central.  Trim the left-hand side and bottom edge using your ruler.

Trim the left-hand and bottom sides.

3.         Next turn the ruler so that the taped edges align accurately with the trimmed left-hand and bottom edges as shown.  Trim the right-hand side and the top edge.  Your square should now measure exactly 3½”. 

Trim the right-hand and top sides.

Method 2 -  the eyeball method  involves a little bit of math. 

1.         Firstly you need to calculate half the width/height of the required square.  For Block 5 you need a square measuring 3½” so half of this is 1¾”.  This measurement is very important.  (If you struggle with math just enter the required block size into a calculator and divide it by 2.)

2.         Position your quilter’s ruler so that the half-width (1¾”) line marking is roughly in the middle of the design vertically as shown (click on the picture if you want to see it close-up). When you are happy with the position trim the right-hand side.

NOTE: It is important that the left-hand side of the fabric extends past the 3½” line marking on your ruler and the right-hand side of the fabric extends past the cutting edge of the ruler.  

3.         Line up the 3½” line marking on your ruler with the trimmed right-hand side of your fabric square and trim the left-hand side as shown.  Your fabric should now measure 3½” wide.

4.         Turn the fabric a quarter turn and line up the bottom of the ruler with the trimmed bottom edge of the fabric.

5.         Repeat step 1 by positioning the ruler so that the 1¾” line marking is central to your chosen emblem/design ensuring that the left-hand side of the fabric extends past the 3½” line marking on your ruler and the right-hand side of the fabric extends past the cutting edge of the ruler as before.  Trim the right-hand side. 

6.         Line up the 3½” line marking on your ruler with the trimmed right-hand side of your fabric square and trim the left-hand side as shown.  Your fabric should now measure 3½” square. 

I would recommend you try both methods and see which your prefer.  Although it appears method 2 is more work I find it just as quick as method 1.

Once you have fussy cut your center square it is a case of following the pattern to complete the block.  

No seam matching required - perfect!

Next Monday I will be 'ladybugging' you with a quick fuse applique method. 

Block 6 - Ladybird

Until then why not share your Paths around the Square blocks over on Instagram (#block5pathsaroundthesquare) or in the Flickr Group.   

Patchsmith Sampler Block 4 - Chain Block

Block 4 - Chain Block

This week is the turn of a traditional block – the Chain Block. 

The Chain Block is a great block for practising seam matching - a skill that relies on stitching an accurate ¼” seam allowance and can be influenced by the way in which you press the seams.  

Seams will match naturally if your seam allowance is accurate

I use a ¼” foot on my sewing machine to ensure my seam allowance is accurate. If you don't have a ¼” foot for your machine you can use a piece of tape on the plate of your machine (see this article on how to position the tape).

If you are new to patchwork, pin your sections together before stitching.
As you become more experienced you may prefer to butt the seams together without pins.

As for seam pressing there was a time when it was advocated that all patchwork seams be pressed to one side. This was especially important if you were hand stitching/quilting or intending to quilt ‘in-the-ditch’ (along the seam). However, with the advent of machine quilting this has changed over the years and now it is up to you whether you press the seams open or to one side (explore different methods of seam pressing).

You can even combine seam pressing within the same block.  This is something I do a lot.

Seams pressed to one side AND open within the same block

If a pattern states seam pressing directions you do not have to follow them - they are just a recommendation.  As you gain confidence you will find your own preference and ease.

All joining seams pressed towards the middle as per the block instructions

Sometimes you will find that seams naturally lie one way or another. Other times you will find it easier to match points if you press the seams open or in opposite directions - especially diagonal points as used in Block 14 - Friendship Block.

Block 14 - Friendship Block 

Within the Patchsmith's Sampler Blocks I sometimes give directions for seam pressing to help with matching seams but you can press your seams as you prefer.  Likewise, you may find it easier to pin the sections together before machine stitching or you may find it sufficient to butt the seams together without pins.  Try different methods to see what suits you best and do not worry if your seams are not perfect.  

If your seams do not match EXACTLY do not worry
- it will not show in the finished quilt

When it comes to the Chain Block you may prefer to press the longer joining seams open (I found it helped the block to lie flatter.)

Pressing sectional seams open may help a block lay flatter.

Next week’s block ‘Paths around the Square’ introduces us to fussy cutting. Until then I look forward to seeing your Chain Blocks over on Instagram (#block4chainblock) or in the Flickr Group. 

Patchsmith Sampler Block 3 - Watermelon Block

Block 3 - Watermelon

Week 3 of the Patchsmith’s Sampler sew-along introduces quick corner triangles to create a juicy Watermelon Block.

A quick corner triangle is a simple way of adding a contrasting triangle to a corner of fabric,  To make a quick corner you first need to mark a diagonal line onto the WRONG SIDE of a square of fabric. 

I use a Frixion pen to draw lines onto fabric. It disappears when ironed. 

Next place the marked square, right sides together, onto the relevant corner of a rectangle or square according to the pattern. The marked square should be facing up. 

Place the marked squares right sides together onto the rectangle

Stitch along the marked line. Then, using your quilters ruler, trim ¼” away from the stitched line (Be sure to trim ¼” on the outer edge of the stitching as shown.)  

Stitch along the marked line before trimming 1/4" from the stitching

Press the triangle open.  The finished patched rectangle/square should measure the same as the original rectangle or square before you applied the quick corners (you may need to trim it slightly).

Press the corner triangles open to create quick corner triangles

The secret to getting a quick corner triangle right is in the marking and stitching of the diagonal line. Take your time with the marking – make sure the diagonal line goes from corner to corner and stitch along the line.  

The fun thing with quick corner triangles is you can make quick corner triangles on top of a quick corner triangle to create fun patterns. We do this on the bottom two corners of the Watermelon Block.

Layering quick corner triangles on top of each other

It is also the method used when making Block 23 – Stained Glass Cross. 

Block 23 - Stained Glass Cross

If you are new to quick corner triangles the Watermelon Block is a great practise block. Do not worry if your corners are not even – watermelon flesh or rind is never perfectly oval. Just have fun learning this new patchworking technique.

Union Jack Blocks and Runner pattern using Quick Corner Triangles 

Before I go, here is a little appliqueing tip for those watermelon pips.  Once you have fused the pips onto the wrong side of your fabric, and before you have cut them out, slightly peel the top edge of the fusible webbing paper back. 

Peel back top edge of fusible webbing paper
prior to cutting out the pips

Finger press the paper back down and cut the pips out.  Then use the peeled top edge to remove the backing paper from each pip.

Peeling the paper off each pip is easy as you have
the top edge already started

Of course, you may prefer to use buttons instead of applique for the pips .......

If using buttons do not add them until all quilting is completed.

Next week we will be looking at seam pressing with Block 4.  Until then I would love for you to post your Watermelon Blocks over on Instagram (#block3watermelonblock) or in the Flickr Group.  Until then ......